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Page 7 6. Remove one bolt and one stud bolt from camshaft caps No. See Figure 6. Remove the remaining five camshaft cap bolts, and camshaft caps. To avoid injury when removing or installing a heavy engine component, ensure the component is properly supported and securely attached to an adequate lifting device to prevent Page 8 For Series 60 engines equipped with Compact Geartrain Assembly disassemble camshaft from the camshaft gear as follows.
Use suitable fixture to secure the camshaft assembly from movement. Install a heavy duty gear puller capable of withstanding the PSI required to remove the gear from the camshaft. Page 9 For engines equipped with the new Compact Geartrain Assembly install camshaft assembly on engine as follows: 1. Install camshaft alignment tool J on the camshaft gear cover and through the camshaft gear, making sure the pin on the tool is entered into the timing hole in the backside of the camshaft gear cover.
The timing pin is designed to break and will not damage the crankshaft. Verify timing pin is in crankshaft locator hole. See Figure 8. Page 11 4. Ensure two seals are properly installed in camshaft gear cover. See Figure 9. Figure 9 Camshaft Seals Page 12 5. Apply RTV along split line on gear case.
See Figure RTV Sealant 4. Lifting Tool 2. Seal 5. Camshaft 3. Page 13 6. Install two guide studs J into gearcase to guide camshaft gear cover assembly onto gearcase. Using lifting tool J place front lifting hook between the number 2 injector lobe and intake valve and the rear hook between the number 4 injector lobe and intake valve, lower camshaft assembly into position on bearings and gear case.
Incorrect installation will result in gear not being in time and the procedure will need to be repeated. Camshaft Gear Cover 2. International shipping available. Among these, the most popular were service manual for detroit 8v92 Service Manual For Detroit 8v92 Detroit Diesel 92 Series 6v92 8v92 Engine Service Repair Detroit Diesel 92 Series 6v92 8v92 Engine Service Repair and read our other 92 series ddec ii detroit manual pdf free download Free download 92 series ddec ii detroit manual pdf or read online and watch manual video on videomanualz.
Detroit Diesel; Detroit 8v92 ddec; 8v92, 12v92, 16v92 built by Detroit. Per customer request, we rear detroit diesel extranet All rights reserved. Detroit Diesel Corporation is a Daimler company.
Use of this information requires acceptance of the Detroit extranet agreement. Unclassified Admin page add link. By By F 1. Decimal in. Metric mm 0. Metric mm Torque Specifications - Fasteners The proper bolt and nut torque is dependent on its size. Standard customary nut and bolt torque specifications are listed in Table 4. The proper torque specifications for metric nuts and bolts are listed in Table 5. Nut and Bolt Size, in.
Nut and Bolt Size M6 X 1. Property Class Torque Specification - Pipe Plugs Standard pipe plug torque specifications supporting the Series 92 engine are listed in Table 6.
Torque Specifications lbft lbft lbft lbft lbft lbft lbft lbft. Stud torque specifications are listed in Table 7. Section 1. The cylinder block is the engine's main structure. See Figure Transverse webs provide rigidity and strength and ensure the block bore and bearings align under load. The cylinder block is a wet type above the cylinder liner ports and a dry type below the cylinder liner ports.
Two seal rings, compressed between the cylinder liner and the block grooves, seal the water jacket and air box. An air box conducts the air from the blower to the cylinders. Air box openings on each side of the block permit piston and compression ring inspection through the air inlet ports in the cylinder liners. The camshaft bores are on the inner side of each cylinder bank near the top of the block.
The upper halves of the main bearing supports are integrally cast with the block. The main bearing bores are line-bored with the bearing caps intact to ensure longitudinal alignment. Drilled passages in the block carry the lubricating oil to all moving engine parts, eliminating the need for external piping.
The top surface of each cylinder bank is grooved to accommodate a block-to-head oil seal ring. All counterbored oil and water holes in the cylinder block use the same size seal rings. A flange at the upper end of the cylinder liner retains each liner in the block. The liner flange rests on an insert located in the block bore counterbore. An individual compression gasket is used at each cylinder.
When the cylinder heads are installed, the compression gaskets form a tight seal between the heads and the cylinder block. To determine if repair is possible or replacement is necessary, perform the following procedure.
The hydraulically operated overhaul stand provides a convenient support when stripping a cylinder block. Once the engine is mounted in an upright position, it may be turned on its side, rotated in either a 90 degree or degree direction, locked in place, and turned back to either end or the oil pan side up. NOTE: Before mounting an engine on an overhaul stand, it must be removed from its base and disconnected from the transmission or other driven mechanism.
Details of this procedure will vary from one application to another. However, the following steps are necessary when removing the engine:. Drain the cooling system. Drain the lubricating oil. Disconnect the fuel lines. Refer to section 2.
Remove the air cleaner and mounting brackets. Refer to section 6. Remove the turbocharger. Disconnect the exhaust piping, and remove the exhaust manifolds. Refer to section 7. Disconnect the throttle controls. Disconnect and remove the starting motor. Refer to section 8. Disconnect and remove battery-charging alternator. Remove the air compressor, if used. Remove the radiator. Refer to section 4. Remove the fan guard. Remove the air box drain tubes and fittings.
Remove the air box covers. NOTE: Early Series 92 vehicle engines built without the air box drain check valve and engines built with drain tubes routed to the crankcase via the dipstick adaptor should be updated with the current open air box drain system.
Disconnect any other lubricating oil lines, fuel lines, or electrical connections. Separate the engine from the transmission or other driven mechanism.
Remove the engine mounting bolts. To avoid injury from a falling engine, an adequate lifting device with a spreader bar and sling should be used to lift the engine. The sling and spreader bar should be adjusted so the lifting hooks are vertical to prevent bending the lifter brackets.
To ensure proper weight distribution, all provided lifter brackets must be used. Use a spreader bar with a suitable sling and adequate chain hoist to lift the engine from its base.
To avoid injury from a falling engine, do not use a damaged lifter bracket when lifting the engine. NOTICE: Detroit Diesel recommends replacing the former welded brackets with the current hot stamped brackets whenever bracket removal is required. Failure to follow these recommendations may lead to component damage. NOTE: Front support brackets on 8V engines are now hot-stamped to final form in one step, eliminating the welding operation formerly required at the bottom outside corner of the brackets.
Former and current design brackets are completely interchangeable, and only the current design will be serviced. Because of the improved engine support that results from this change, Detroit Diesel recommends replacing the former welded brackets with the current hot-stamped brackets whenever bracket removal is required.
To avoid injury from a falling engine, ensure the engine is securely attached to the engine overhaul stand before releasing the lifting sling. Mount the engine securely to the overhaul stand using grade 8 bolts. For 12V and 16V engines, use overhaul stand J and adaptor J With the engine mounted on an overhaul stand, remove all of the remaining subassemblies and parts from the cylinder block.
NOTE: A water inlet adaptor plug and gasket replaces the rear flywheel housing end core hole plug in the cylinder block air box floor on engines with an aftercooler. Remove the two "B" bolts and special washers from the oil drain back cavity. Attach a chain hoist to the lifting bracket. Lift the cylinder blocks into a vertical position, and rest the end of the rear cylinder block on a clean, flat surface.
Remove the seven remaining bolts A, C, D, and E securing the two cylinder blocks together. Remove the two spacers used on the two "D" bolts.
Lift the front cylinder block off the rear cylinder block, and remove the seal strip from the groove in the rear block. Scrape all gasket material from the cylinder block. Remove all oil gallery plugs and core hole plugs except the cup plugs to allow the cleaning solution to contact the inside of the oil and water passages. Give it a few sharp blows with a one pound hammer. Turn it in the opposite direction, and back the plug out.
To avoid injury from improper use of chemicals, follow the chemical manufacturers usage, handling, and disposal instructions. Observe all manufacturers cautions. Agitate the cylinder block in a hot bath of commercial heavy-duty alkaline cleaner solution to remove grease. Rinse the block in hot water, or steam clean it to remove the alkaline cleaner solution. If the water jackets are heavily scaled, proceed as follows: [a] [b] [c] [d] [e] Agitate the block in a bath of inhibited phosphoric acid.
Allow the block to remain in the acid bath until the bubbling stops approximately 30 minutes. Lift the block, drain it, and immerse it in the same acid solution for 10 minutes. Repeat step 5[c] until all scale is removed. Rinse the block in clean hot water to remove the acid solution. Wash the block in clean water, or steam clean it. Dry the cylinder block with compressed air. Thoroughly clean all water passages, oil galleries, and air box drain openings. To avoid injury from contact with the contaminants in used engine oil, wear protective gloves and apron.
Coat the air box core plug threads and the gaskets with clean engine oil. Clean the cup plug holes, and apply Loctite pipe sealant with Teflon, or equivalent, to the outer diameter of the plugs.
Use this method when a large water tank is available and the cylinder block is completely stripped of all parts. The plates will adequately seal the top surface of the block when used with new cylinder line compression gaskets and water hole seal rings. Use water hole cover plates and gaskets to seal the water openings in the sides of the block. One cover plate should be drilled and tapped to provide a connection for an air line to pressurize the water jackets. The seal ring grooves in the cylinder bores must be clean.
Install new seal rings in the grooves above the air inlet ports. Apply clean engine oil to the seal rings. Place liner inserts in the cylinder block counterbores. Slide the cylinder liners into the block. Install new compression gaskets and water hole seal rings in the block counterbores.
Tighten the bolts to Nm lbft torque. Bolt steel plates and suitable rubber gaskets to the water inlet and outlet holes, making them airtight. Drill and tap one cover plate to provide a connection for an air line. Seal the aftercooler water inlet adaptor plug in the air box floor. Immerse the block for 20 minutes in a tank of water heated to 82 C F. Visually inspect for bubbles indicating cracks in the block. If no cracks are detected, proceed with inspection.
Remove the plates, gaskets, liners, and inserts. Blow out all passages in the block with compressed air. Dry the cylinder liners and inserts with compressed air, and coat them with oil to prevent rust.
Use this method when a large water tank is unavailable or when the block is not completely stripped. The following must be removed before performing this test: Cylinder heads, refer to section 1. Blower, refer to section 6. Oil cooler, refer to section 3. Oil pan, refer to section 3. Perform the following to pressure test: 1. Before attaching the last sealing plate, fill the water jacket with a mixture of water and one gallon ethylene glycol based antifreeze.
The antifreeze will penetrate small cracks, and its color will mark their presence. Install the remaining sealing plate, and tighten securely. Maintain this pressure for at least two hours to give the water and antifreeze mixture ample time to work its way through any cracks.
Visually inspect cylinder bores, air box, oil passages, crankcase, and block exterior. If no water and antifreeze mixture is visible, proceed with block inspection. Blow out all of the passages in the block with compressed air. Inspect the cylinder block as follows: 1. Visually inspect all machined surfaces for nicks or burrs. If surfaces are free of nicks and burrs, proceed with inspection. If threads are damaged, re-tap the holes or install helical thread inserts.
If threads are undamaged, proceed with inspection. If dowel pins are loose, tighten them. If dowel pins are damaged, replace them. If dowel pins are neither loose or damaged, proceed with inspection. If on 6V and 8V engines, dowels do not extend If on 12V and 16V engines, dowels do not extend If dowels extend the appropriate distance from the cylinder block, proceed with inspection.
Measure the extension of the dowels used to retain the crankshaft thrust washers from the bearing cap surface. If the dowels do not extend 2. If the dowels extend the appropriate distance from the bearing cap surface, proceed with inspection. If pins are loose or damaged, they must be replaced. NOTE: Stepped dowel pins are used to replace damaged or loose pins. Prior to installation, the holes in the bearing cap must be bored with a No.
Using a straight edge and feeler gage, check the cylinder block head contact surfaces for flatness. On 6V and 12V engines, if the cylinder head deck surfaces vary more than 0. On 8V and 16V engines, if the cylinder head deck surfaces vary more than 0. If measurements fall within specifications, proceed with inspection. Measure the distance from the centerline of the crankshaft to the top of the cylinder head surface.
If the measurement falls within specifications, proceed with inspection. If the measurement does not fall between If there is over a 0. If the counterbore measurements are within specifications, proceed with inspection.
If the threads are damaged, use a tap to "clean-up" the threads. If necessary, install a helical thread insert.
Inspect the main bearing bores as follows: 1. Check the main bearing bore diameter. The specified bore diameter is If the diameters for each bore does not fall within these limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. If the diameter for each bore falls within these limits, proceed with inspection.
NOTE: At the time of major engine overhaul, the cylinder block main bearing bore measurements should be made with the block in an upside down position on the floor rather than on an engine overhaul stand.
Check the main bearing bores for misalignment. If bores are aligned, proceed with inspection, refer to section 1. The main bearing caps should be in place, and the bolts torqued to Nm lbft. Failure to follow the torque specifications may result in damage to the cylinder block.
Measure each cylinder bore on a 90 degree axis using cylinder bore gage J B. At position A, diameter must not exceed At position B, diameter must not exceed At position C, diameter must not exceed At position D, diameter must not exceed If measurements do not fall within specifications, replace the block. If measurements fall within specifications, proceed with block bore inspection.
If the taper and out-of-roundness exceeds 0. If the taper and out-of-roundness falls within specifications, proceed with inspection. If grooves and lands are pitted or eroded, or if the grooves above the air inlet ports are excessively eroded, replace the block. If grooves and lands are neither pitted nor eroded, refer to section 1. NOTE: Before a reconditioned or a new service replacement cylinder block is used, steam clean to remove all traces of oil or rust preventive.
Blow out the galleries with compressed air. For assembly of the 6V and 8V engine refer to section 1. Lift the cylinder block assembly with a chain hoist. Place the cylinder block on a clean, flat surface with the seal strip groove in the front end facing up. Apply a thin coat of Lubriplate, or equivalent, in the seal strip and seal ring grooves.
Place a new seal strip in the groove. Place two new seal rings in the seal ring grooves. Place one new seal ring in the main oil gallery seal ring groove. The seal strip must lay flat in the groove. Apply a thin coat of Lubriplate, or equivalent, on the exposed flat surface of the seal strip.
Remove any excess Lubriplate from the cylinder block. Mount the cylinder block on the overhaul stand. If a new service replacement block is used: Stamp the engine serial number and model number on the right-hand side of the cylinder block. Stamp the position number on the main bearing caps. Stamp the No. Use a suitable non-hardening sealant on the threads of the plugs and drain cocks. Install all of the required cylinder block plugs and drain cocks.
This area is now cast solid to provide enhanced coolant flow to the upper cylinder areas of the engine. On blocks built prior to the foregoing date, the 1 in.
When properly installed, the solid plugs provide an inside coolant passage All information subject to change without notice. For this reason, only the solid plugs should be installed in this area when assembling or servicing former blocks. Cup plugs should no linger be used. Apply Loctite or equivalent anaerobic sealant to the O. Install the necessary plugs and dowels. Install the plugs flush with or below the surface of the block. NOTE: The plug, that blocks the oil cooler adaptor inlet from the adaptor outlet, must be installed in the vertical passage.
Install subassemblies and parts on the block. Use a chain hoist and suitable sling to transfer the engine to a dynamometer test stand. Dismount the block from the lifting device. Run the dynamometer test. Lift the cylinder block approximately four feet off the floor to position the front cylinder block over the rear cylinder block, horizontally and parallel.
This may dislodge or twist the block seal strip or oil gallery seal ring. Lower the front block against the rear block. Position the front cylinder block as close to the final alignment as possible before lowering it on the rear cylinder block. Place a suitable wooden block, approximately 3 in. Place the triangular cylinder block alignment tool J in the main bearing bore.
See Figure for contact point locations. Rest the lower end of the tool on the wood block. Install the number 4, 5, and 6 12V , or 5, 6, and 7 16V , crankshaft main bearing caps in their original positions. Lubricate the threads and the contact face of the cylinder block attaching bolts A, C, D, and E with a small amount of International Compound No.
NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts at this time. If it is necessary to shift the front cylinder block when installing the attaching bolts, use a soft hammer to tap at points "A" and "B". Move a dial indicator across the bottom faces oil pan rail of the cylinder blocks. The mismatch, if any, between the bottom faces of the two blocks must be equal on both sides of the cylinder block assembly within 0.
If it is necessary to shift the front cylinder block when checking the alignment, tap at points "A" and "B" with a soft hammer to align the blocks.
Tighten the four "C" and "D" bolts to Nm lbft torque. Tighten the two "E" bolts to Nm lbft torque. Tighten the "A" bolt nut to Nm lbft torque. Repeat the cylinder block alignment check. If the alignment is unsatisfactory, loosen all of the attaching bolts, realign the blocks, and retighten the attaching bolts.
When cylinder block is aligned, cut the excess block seal strip lengths flush with the bottom face of the block. Remove the cylinder block alignment tool J and the wood block. Lift the cylinder block assembly with a chain hoist, and place it horizontally on a clean, flat surface. Install the "B" bolts and washers. Damage to the socket could occur. Tighten bolts to Nm lbft torque, using wrench J from set J B. Use a suitable non-hardening sealant on the surface of the block.
When properly installed, the solid plugs provide an inside coolant passage configuration similar to that in the improved blocks, resulting in enhanced upper cylinder cooling. Install the plugs flush with or below the surfaces of the block.
Use tool J to install the 1 in. Install a stepped dowel pin to replace loose pins in the rear main bearing cap. Remove all burrs from the base of the dowel pins to ensure proper seating of the thrust washers. Install assemblies and parts. Use the dynamometer to run the engine. Use a spreader bar with a suitable sling and adequate chain hoist to replace the engine in its base. Replace the engine mounting bolts. Connect the engine to the transmission or other driven mechanisms.
Connect lubricating oil lines. Connect the fuel lines. Connect the electrical connections. Attach the air box covers. NOTE: DDC recommends retrofitting existing 6V inline coach engines with the new air box covers and drains because of the significant drainage improvement. NOTE: To ensure efficient air box drainage, install air box covers with the drilled drain openings down and the slot in the large cover facing inboard.
Install check valves at an angle of 30 degrees to 45 degrees. Do not install check valves horizontally. Attach the air box drain tubes and fittings. Attach the radiator, fan guard, and other related cooling system parts. Attach the air compressor, if used. Connect the starting motor, battery-charging alternator, and other related electrical system parts. Connect the throttle controls. Connect the exhaust piping, and the exhaust manifolds.
Install the turbocharger, if used. Replace the air cleaner and mounting brackets. Fill lubricating system with the recommended grade of oil and viscosity.
Refer to section 5. Fill the cooling system with the specified antifreeze. Flat steel plates bolted to each end of the cylinder block provide a support for the flywheel housing at the rear and a balance weight cover at the front of the engine. The rear end plate has a 3 in. Gaskets are used between the block and each end plate.
On current engines, the left-bank accessory drive mounting hole in the rear end plate is omitted, unless an accessory drive is specified. Remove the cylinder block rear end plates as follows: 1.
Remove the bolts and lock washers retaining the rear end plate to the cylinder block. Remove and discard gaskets. Remove the front end plate as follows: 1. Remove the bolts and lock washers retaining the front end plate to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gaskets. Prior to inspection, clean the end plates as follows: 1.
All of the old gasket material must be removed from both surfaces of the end plate and the cylinder block. Immerse the end plates in a hot bath of commercial heavy-duty alkaline cleaner solution. Rinse them in hot water, or steam clean to remove the alkaline cleaner solution. Inspect the cylinder block end plates as follows: 1. Inspect both surfaces of each end plate for nicks, dents, scratches, or score marks.
If excessively nicked, dented, scratched, or scored, replace the end plates. If the end plates are not nicked, dented, scratched, or scored, proceed with inspection. If warped, replace the end plates. If the end plates are not warped, proceed with inspection. If cracked or threads are damaged, replace the plug nuts.
If not cracked or damaged, reuse the plug nuts. Install the front end plate as follows: 1. Affix new gaskets to the ends of the cylinder block. Attach the small round gasket to the corner at the front end of the cylinder block.
Attach the front end plate to the cylinder block with bolts and lock washers. Finger-tighten the bolts. Insert the right-bank camshaft end bearing through the SMALL bearing bore in the end plate and into the block bore to accurately align the end plate with the cylinder block. NOTE: The holes in the front and rear end plates for the camshaft end bearings are not the same size.
The smaller hole is accurately machined for alignment purposes and is always located on the right side of the engine, as viewed from the rear. Remove the camshaft bearing that served as a pilot while attaching the front end plate.
Install the rear end plate as follows: NOTE: Prior to installing the end plate, attach the small cover if used to the cylinder block side of the rear end plate with two bolts and copper washers. Use a new gasket between the cover and the end plate. Attach the rear end plate to the cylinder block with bolts and lock washers.
The smaller hole is accurately machined for alignment purposes and is always located on the engine's right side, as viewed from the rear. Remove the camshaft bearing that served as a pilot while the front end plate was being attached. Tighten it to Nm lbft torque. Trim off any excess gasket material.
The cylinder head is a one-piece casting. The exhaust valves, fuel injectors, and the valve and injector operating mechanism are located in the cylinder head. The four exhaust valves per cycle are arranged in a trapezoidal configuration, with two valves set farther apart than the others. Exhaust valve seat inserts, pressed into the cylinder head, permit accurate valve seating under varying temperatures and prolong cylinder head life. To ensure efficient cooling, each fuel injector is inserted into a thin-walled tube that passes through the water space in the cylinder head.
The lower end of the injector tube is pressed into the cylinder head and flared. The upper end is flanged and sealed with a seal ring. The upper and lower ends of the injector tube prevent water and compression leaks.
Nozzles 6. Water Passage Block to Head 7. The exhaust passages from each cylinder exhaust valve lead through a single port to the exhaust manifold. Engine coolant surrounds the exhaust passages and the injector tubes. Water nozzles pressed into the water inlet ports in the cylinder head further ensure cooling.
The nozzles direct high velocity engine coolant toward the cylinder head sections that are subjected to the greatest heat. New cylinder heads with small diameter, one-piece, double-jet water nozzles are being used on Series 92 Engines, effective with serial numbers 6VF, 8VF and 16VF Water nozzle hole diameters have been reduced from The fuel inlet and outlet manifolds are integrally cast into the cylinder head.
Tapped holes are provided for fuel line connection at various points along each manifold. Water flow is entirely internal on the 6V and 8V end outlet cylinder heads.
On 12V and 16V engines, a water manifold is attached to each cylinder head. To seal compression between the cylinder head and the cylinder liner, separate laminated metal gaskets are provided at each cylinder.
Water and oil passages between the cylinder head and cylinder block are sealed with the same size silicone seal rings that fit into counterbored holes in the block. A synthetic rubber seal fits into a milled groove near the perimeter of the block.
Heat-sensitive fuse plugs are installed in the exhaust manifold side of the cylinder head. The plug insert will melt if the head exceeds its "critical" temperature of C F.
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